2012 Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino

Fattoria dei Barbi is a 750-acre estate in Montalcino and Scansano. The 250 acres of vineyards produce about 800,000 bottles of wine annually. The estate has been owned by the Colombini family, who have been statesmen, businessmen, politicians and academics over the centuries. Though the estate makes olive oil and other agricultural products, it is best known for its Brunello. Gambero Rosso has noted that “Fattoria dei Barbi is an almost obligatory stop for anyone interested in knowing more about Brunello and its heritage.”

Brunello di Montalcino is regarded as one of Italy’s best appellations. Located in south central Tuscany below Chianti, the wines of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are made of a Sangiovese clone called “brunello,” which means “little dark one,” a reference to the brown tones in the skin of the grape. Unlike some Tuscan appellations that allow other grapes to be blended with Sangiovese, Brunello di Montalcino is entirely Sangiovese. Montalcino itself is a picturesque, hill-top town not especially well known for wine production until the mid-19th century, when a local vineyard owner isolated the brunello clone and planted it. Other growers followed suit. Nevertheless it wasn’t until 1970s that wine enthusiasts started paying attention to Brunello di Montalcino, which by then was becoming an outstanding wine. Today there are 120 estates in the DOCG, up from about 25 estates in 1975. Brunellos in general are bigger, darker, more tannic and more powerful wines than Chiantis or most other Sangioveses. By law they must be aged for four years, and two of those years must be in wooden barrels.