2017 La Spinetta Barbaresco Starderi, 6-bottle Lot, Wood Case

Founded in 1977 in the Piedmont region, La Spinetta is a family-run wine proudcer that mixes modern techniques with old world tradition. It is also one of Italy’s most admired, innovative and modern wineries. It has won 34 prestigious Three Glass awards in 22 years from Italy’s best-known wine journal, Gambero Rosso. Only Gaja has won more. La Spinetta is owned by brothers Carlo, Bruno and Giorgio Rivetti, and Giorgio is also head winemaker. The producer now has three properties, two in Piedmont and one in Tuscany, and owns a total of 412 acres of vineyards. La Spinetta produces nearly 650,000 bottles a year, of which about 30% is Moscato, 24% is Sangiovese, 22% is Barbera, 10% is Pin (a blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera). The remainder of the production is Barolo, Barbera and Chardonnay. Reviewers are invariably impressed with the Barolos, Barberas and Barbarescos, and typically describe them using such terms as “ravishing” and “gorgeous.”

Barbaresco is one of the two most acclaimed DOCGs in Piedmont, the other being Barolo. Located just a few miles north of Barolo, Barbaresco is a small town of fewer than 700 people and 1,680 vineyard acres, making it less than half the size of the Barolo DOCG. The other communes in this DOCG of rolling hills are Neive and Treiso. As in Barolo, the DOCG requires that Barbaresco DOCG wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. By the late 20th century respected producers were making outstanding Nebbiolos, as well as Nebbiolo blends that do not carry the DOCG label. Barbaresco was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to a DCOG in 1980. DOCG Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of two years, with a minimum of one year in wood. Barbarescos are regarded as more subtle and refined than Barolos, and more approachable when young.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.

Rivetti