2017 Pierre Yves Colin-Morey Santenay Les Gravieres

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is a 13.5-acre domaine in Chassagne-Montrachet. Pierre-Yves is the eldest son of Marc Colin, who 40 years ago started the domaine that would become Marc Colin et Fils. Today Marc Colin et Fils is run by Marc’s two younger sons. Pierre-Yves was winemaker for Marc Colin et Fils from 1995 to 2005, but in 2006 Pierre-Yves struck out on his own with a small domaine and a micro-negociant business. He has expanded his properties since then and now his grapes are about 70% from his own parcels and 30% purchased. Colin-Morey produces about 6,000 cases a year and has Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Pierre-Yves makes mostly white wines, from Grand Crus to villages appellations. But it is his Premier Cru whites that have most impressed reviewers and collectors. Clive Coates notes that Pierre-Yves makes wine that “is pure, elegant and precise. He is a name to watch.”

Santenay is the southernmost appellation in the Côte d’Or. The appellation includes the communes of Santenay and Remigny and it has 813 vineyard acres. Both red and white wines can be made within the Santenay appellation, though in practice about 85% of the wine produced here is red. Pinot Blanc may be used in white wines, though most white Santenays are 100% Chardonnay. Though there are no Grands Crus, Santenay boasts 12 Premiers Crus. Among the best Premiers Crus vineyards are Clos de Tavannes, La Comme, Les Gravières and Le Passe Temps. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “good Santenays share a robust, tannic, earthy character with a bouquet that suggests cherry and strawberry fruit intertwined with the smell of sautéed almonds.” Clive Coates has noted that the white wines of Santenay “should be crisp, medium-bodied and fruity, less racy but fuller than Saint-Aubins, perhaps with a touch of spice…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.