1997 Chateau de Puligny Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet

Château de Puligny-Montrachet is part of the wine producing and negociant enterprise of the de Montille family. The family has had its roots in Burgundy winemaking since the 18th century. But it was Hubert de Montille, who trained as a lawyer, who nevertheless took over the family business in the 1950s, ending the family’s centuries-long tradition of selling grapes to negociants. Hubert died several years ago and today Hubert’s children Étienne and Alix run the estate. Etienne worked during the 1990s at California wine producers. The de Montilles bought the 50-care Château de Puligny-Montrachet in 2012, primarily to produce Chardonnay. The family’s other labels include Deux Montille Soeur-Frére and Domaine de Montille.

Chevalier-Montrachet is one of the four justly famous Grand Cru Chardonnay vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet appellation in Burgundy. The 18-acre vineyard is located up the slope from Le Montrachet and shares Le Montrachet’s excellent southern exposure, though Chevalier-Montrachet’s soil is considerably thinner and more rocky. Burgundy writer Clive Coates has noted that Chevalier-Montrachet is “full, firm” and has “a great deal of depth and elegance.” The largest landholders are Bouchard Pere et Fils, 7.5 acres; Leflaive, 4 acres; and Louis Jadot, 1.5 acres.

This white variety originated in Burgundy, but is now grown around the world. Its flexibility to thrive in many regions translates to wide flavor profile in the market. Chardonnay is commonly used in making Champagne and sparkling wines.