2009 Benjamin Leroux Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs

Maison Benjamin Leroux in Beaune was started in 2007 by Benjamin Leroux, one of the most admired young winemakers in Burgundy. Leroux became winemaker and manager at prestigious Domaine Comte Armand starting in 1999, when he was not yet 30, but he wanted his own label. With several investors he started his negociant business by taking over a section of the 19th century Jaboulet-Vercherre winery in Beaune. He owns and leases vineyards, and makes one monopole, Volnay Premier Cru Clos de les Caves. Since Leroux is often working with very small leased parcels, he makes several dozen wines, often ending up with a single barrel of less of particular cuvee. In 2014 he quit his job at Comte Armand. His wines earn compliments from reviewers, including a 2014 Wine Advocate review: “Suffice to say that this is a strong set of wines from a very talented winemaker…whose comprehensive portfolio spans much of Burgundy,(with each wine) translating the leitmotifs of their respective terroirs with style and panache.

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.