2021 David Duband Clos Vougeot

David Duband comes from a vigneron family long based in Chevannes, in the Hautes Cotes de Nuits. He took over the family domaine in 1995 when his father retired and he has also expanded the domaine, which now includes Grand Cru parcels in Echezeaux, Charmes-Chambertin and Clos Vougeot. Altogether Duband owns or leases on long term 25 acres. Duband also farms and makes wine for Francois Feuillet who owns 25 acres nearby, part of it leased by Duband. Wines with Feuillet labels are therefore also made by Duband. Clive Coates compliments Duband for his “up-to-date, classic, modern winemaking…” and notes that there is “high quality” at the estate. Duband also makes Premier Crus inn Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey St. Denis, along with village wines.

Clos de Vougeot is a walled vineyard that dominates the tiny commune of Vougeot in Burgundy’s Nuits-St.-Georges. The 124-acre Grand Cru vineyard includes a historic chateau that in 1945 was purchased by the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, an organization devoted to promoting the traditions of Burgundy and its wines. The impressive chateau is the organization’s headquarters. Clos de Vougeot was established as a vineyard by Cistercian monks in the 12th century, then sold off to private owners after the French Revolution. The vineyard is unusual for a Grand Cru in that it includes land that runs down to the main road. The soil is light limestone with sand. Principal landowners are Chateau de la Tour, with 13 acres; Meo-Camuzet, 7.5 acres; Rebourseau, 5.5 acres; Louis Jadot, 5.3 acres; and Leroy, 5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.