2022 Benjamin Leroux Charmes-Chambertin

Maison Benjamin Leroux in Beaune was started in 2007 by Benjamin Leroux, one of the most admired young winemakers in Burgundy. Leroux became winemaker and manager at prestigious Domaine Comte Armand starting in 1999, when he was not yet 30, but he wanted his own label. With several investors he started his negociant business by taking over a section of the 19th century Jaboulet-Vercherre winery in Beaune. He owns and leases vineyards, and makes one monopole, Volnay Premier Cru Clos de les Caves. Since Leroux is often working with very small leased parcels, he makes several dozen wines, often ending up with a single barrel of less of particular cuvee. In 2014 he quit his job at Comte Armand. His wines earn compliments from reviewers, including a 2014 Wine Advocate review: “Suffice to say that this is a strong set of wines from a very talented winemaker…whose comprehensive portfolio spans much of Burgundy,(with each wine) translating the leitmotifs of their respective terroirs with style and panache.

Charmes-Chambertin is a 78-acre Grand Cru vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin that traditionally includes the acreage of nearby Mazoyeres-Chambertin. For nearly 200 years the growers of Mazoyeres have been legally allowed to sell their wines under the more famous name of Charmes-Chambertin, and virtually all of them do. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Crus, and it generally has an excellent reputation. The slope of the vineyard is gentle and the surface soil poor. But producers including Joseph Roty, Christian Serafin, Domaine Dujac, Faiveley and Joseph Drouhin are acclaimed for their Charmes Chambertin. Principal landholders are Camus, with 14.75 acres; Perrot-Minot, 4 acres; and Armand Rousseau, 3.5 acres.

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.