2014 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée 3.14, 1.5ltr

Jean Foillard and his wife Agnes became the proprietors of Jean’s family vineyard in 1980. The 35-acre domaine has parcels outside of Villié-Morgan in the prestigious Beaujolais appellations of Morgon and Fleurie. Jean was influenced early in his career by the traditionalist vigneron techniques championed by Jules Chauvet, the late, highly influential Beaujolais negociant who believed in natural winemaking. As Chauvet advocated, Foillard carefully tends his old vines, banning all herbicides and pesticides, harvesting late and taking a very minimalist approach in the cellar. The domaine wins compliments from reviewers. Wine Advocate has noted that the domaine’s wines “are wonderful, life-affirming expressions of Beaujolais…If you are still under the misguided belief that Beaujolais cannot make world class wine, then you have not tasted the wines from Jean Foillard.”

Morgon is considered one of the finest of the Beaujolais Cru appellations. It is also the second largest with 2,717 acres of vineyards. The appellation is in central Beaujolais south of Fleurie and is centered around Mont du Py, whose Côte du Py granite hillsides are home to some of the best Morgon vineyards. The Gamays made in Morgon are full-bodied and concentrated but less fruity than other Beaujolais Crus. Morgons are also known for their ability to age, unlike some other Beaujolais. The alcohol content is often relatively high and in some vintages the wines approach 14% alcohol. About 700,000 cases are produced annually.

The Gamay grape produces a light, versatile and food-friendly wine. It is best known for making Beaujolais Nouveau, but it is also grown in Loire and Tours. Thankfully the 14th C. Duke of Burgundy’s degree to ban the grape did not spread through all of France.