1997 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Francia

Giacomo Conterno is one of Piedmont’s traditionalist producers, and one of its most renowned. Founded at the turn of the 20th century by Giacomo Conterno, the winery passed to his son Giovanni in the mid-20th century. When he died a few years ago his son Roberto took over. Located on 35 acres in Monforte d’Alba, in Piedmont, Robert M. Parker Jr. calls the producer “the quintessential conservative, traditional winery that makes no concessions to modern-day tastes or the bottom line.” Parker added that Conterno wines “consistently develop into profoundly complex, multidimensional wines that stand the test of time.” The vineyards are planted to Nebbiolo d’Alba and Barbera d’Alba. Conterno’s signature wines are the Barolo Cascina Francia and Barolo Riserva Monfortino.

Barbera d’Alba is a DOC centered around the town of Alba, and it is considered home to some of the best wines made from the Barbera grape. Barbera is the most frequently planted grape in Piedmont, thanks to its adaptability and vigorous character. It is easier to grow and less susceptible to adverse weather than Nebbiolo, which is grown in neighboring appellations. Barbera in general has relatively low tannins but high acidity, and the wines tend to have flavors of ripe currant and cherry. The Barbera DOC was created in 1970 and the DOC wines must be 100% Barbera.

This red wine is from Piedmont. It is known for low tannins and high acidity, which makes it taste both light-bodied and rich. Barbera most often drinks early, but some variations can be cellared. The wine is relatively inexpensive and flexible for pairing.