2020 Arianna Occhipinti SM Vino di Contrada Sicilia Bianco

Occhipinti wines are made by Arianna Occhipinti, who has a cult following in Italy, despite having been in business only since 2004. She was a 24-year-old university graduate in viticulture when she opened her own winery in 2004 by farming 2.5 acres of rented vineyards in Vittorio, in southeastern Sicily. She immediately began making wines from her organically grown indigenous grapes, including Frappato di Vittorio and Nero d’Avola. She has since expanded her vineyards to include 60 acres, and she also grows white wine grapes, such as Moscato di Alessandria and Albanello. She makes red and white wines. Wine writers have been effusive. Wine Advocate has complimented her for “her sheer determination to make the wine she wants in the distinct style she has envisioned…(it) is inspirational.” And Vinous notes that her label’s cult following is “thanks in no small measure to the ebullient personality of the talented, young and very passionate owner Arianna Occhipinti…Being in touch with her grapes, terroir and regional history is just one of the many factors that explain Occhipinti’s meteoric and deserved success…”

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, and, with its 329,000 vineyard acres, Italy’s largest wine region by acreage and the quantity of wine produced. Nevertheless, only 2.1% of all Sicilian wine is DOC, or wine made according to appellation standards. Until the 1970s Sicilian wine grapes either went to make Marsala, the sweet dessert wine introduced by 18th century British wine merchants, or to cooperatives that specialized in bulk wine production. But in 1968 Sicily was awarded its first DOC, which was the Etna DOC on the southern slopes of Mt. Etna, and today there are 19 DOCs. Along with the Maremma on Tuscany’s western coast, Sicily is considered the most exciting winemaking region in Italy. Longtime family agricultural estates are being turned into high quality commercial wineries, and because land prices are low compared to other parts of Italy, enterprising young winemakers and viticulturalists – many of whom practice organic and sustainable farming – have started wineries in Sicily. Marsala is still produced, and the Marsala business is one reason why 60% of Sicily’s vineyards are planted to Catarratto, the white grape used as a base for Marsala. But dry white wines are made from Inzolia, Malvasia, Zibbio and Chardonnay. But it is Sicily’s big, complex red wines that are grabbing the attention of wine enthusiasts. Nero d’Avola is Sicily’s most common red grape, and it produces rich, somewhat spicy wines. Other red grapes are Nerello Mascalese, Frappato and French varietals.