1971 Giacomo Conterno Barbaresco

Giacomo Conterno is one of Piedmont’s traditionalist producers, and one of its most renowned. Founded at the turn of the 20th century by Giacomo Conterno, the winery passed to his son Giovanni in the mid-20th century. When he died a few years ago his son Roberto took over. Located on 35 acres in Monforte d’Alba, in Piedmont, Robert M. Parker Jr. calls the producer “the quintessential conservative, traditional winery that makes no concessions to modern-day tastes or the bottom line.” Parker added that Conterno wines “consistently develop into profoundly complex, multidimensional wines that stand the test of time.” The vineyards are planted to Nebbiolo d’Alba and Barbera d’Alba. Conterno’s signature wines are the Barolo Cascina Francia and Barolo Riserva Monfortino.

Barbaresco is one of the two most acclaimed DOCGs in Piedmont, the other being Barolo. Located just a few miles north of Barolo, Barbaresco is a small town of fewer than 700 people and 1,680 vineyard acres, making it less than half the size of the Barolo DOCG. The other communes in this DOCG of rolling hills are Neive and Treiso. As in Barolo, the DOCG requires that Barbaresco DOCG wines be 100% Nebbiolo, a grape thought of as the Pinot Noir of Italy. Records show that Nebbiolo was grown in the Piedmont as early as the 14th century, and despite being somewhat finicky – it is late to ripen and easily damaged by adverse weather --- Nebbiolo makes highly aromatic and powerful red wines. Until the mid-19th century Nebbiolos of Piedmont were vinified as sweet wines, though that ended in the late 19th century when a French oenologist was invited to Piedmont to show producers how to make dry reds. By the late 20th century respected producers were making outstanding Nebbiolos, as well as Nebbiolo blends that do not carry the DOCG label. Barbaresco was made a DOC in 1966 and upgraded to a DCOG in 1980. DOCG Barbaresco must be aged a minimum of two years, with a minimum of one year in wood. Barbarescos are regarded as more subtle and refined than Barolos, and more approachable when young.

This red grape is most often associated with Piedmont, where it becomes DOCG Barolo and Barbaresco, among others. Its name comes from Italian for “fog,” which descends over the region at harvest. The fruit also gains a foggy white veil when mature.