2004 Thierry et Pascale Matrot Volnay Santenots

Thierry et Pascal Matrot is the name of one of the Meursault domaine that has been in the Matrot family for six generations. The estate was called Domaine Joseph Matrot until the early 1960s, when it became domaine Pierre Matrot when Joseph’s son Pierre took over. Pierre’s son Thierry is now in charge, along with his wife Pascale. For legal reasons having to do with inheritance, some wines are still produced under the Pierre Matrot label, though most now are sold under the Domaine Thierry et Pascal Matrot label. Thierry is winemaker for all the wines, and the family domaine includes the couple’s daughters Adele and Elsa, both of whom studied business and viticulture in college. The domaine is comprised of 45 acres and makes Premier Cru and villages red and white wines. Premier Cru parcels are in Saint-Aubin, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Volnay Santenots, among other sites. Matrot wines earn consistently good reviews and Clive Coates calls the estate “a good address.”

Volnay is a small appellation with just 904 vineyard acres and a town of fewer than 500 residents. Nevertheless, to Burgundy enthusiasts, it's a jewel. Clive Coates calls Volnay “one of the most delightful wines and one of the most rewarding communes in the Côte d’Or.” Robert M. Parker Jr. described Volnay as “the queen of the Côte de Beaune.” Volnay has always been appealing. In the 13th and 14th centuries the powerful Dukes of Burgundy acquired land there and built chateaux. The medieval town sits on the hillside above the vineyards and the appellation is restricted to red wines made of Pinot Noir. Though there are no Grands Crus, there are 35 Premiers Crus. Some reviewers say the lighter soil of Volnay, compared with Pommard to the north, makes Volnay wines more delicate and elegant than wines from neighboring appellations. Robert M. Parker Jr. wrote that Volnay has a “high-quality level of winemaking…The top Volnays possess an immense, seductive fruitiness and lushness…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.