1998 Bouchard Pere et Fils Santenay, 12-bottle Lot

This Beaune-based domaine is one of the largest and most venerable in Burgundy. It was founded in 1731 by Michel Bouchard as a textile sales and distribution company. But twenty years later Michel’s son Joseph acquired vineyards in Volnay in the famous Les Caillerets climat and started producing wine. Over the centuries the family continued to acquire exceptional vineyards throughout the Côte d’Or. For nine generations the Bouchard family ran the estate, creating notable wines, and ran their own negociant business. In 1986 the Bouchards built a new state-of-the-art facility and in 1995 they sold the estate to the French Champagne house Joseph Henriot. With more than 300 acres of vineyards in various parts of Burgundy, Bouchard Pere et Fils produces Grand Crus, Premiers Crus and other wines. It makes red and white Burgundies and is especially well-known for Grand Cru Chardonnays.

Santenay is the southernmost appellation in the Côte d’Or. The appellation includes the communes of Santenay and Remigny and it has 813 vineyard acres. Both red and white wines can be made within the Santenay appellation, though in practice about 85% of the wine produced here is red. Pinot Blanc may be used in white wines, though most white Santenays are 100% Chardonnay. Though there are no Grands Crus, Santenay boasts 12 Premiers Crus. Among the best Premiers Crus vineyards are Clos de Tavannes, La Comme, Les Gravières and Le Passe Temps. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “good Santenays share a robust, tannic, earthy character with a bouquet that suggests cherry and strawberry fruit intertwined with the smell of sautéed almonds.” Clive Coates has noted that the white wines of Santenay “should be crisp, medium-bodied and fruity, less racy but fuller than Saint-Aubins, perhaps with a touch of spice…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.