1995 Colin-Deleger Santenay Les Gravieres

Domaine Michel Colin-Deleger is a tiny, highly esteemed estate in Burgundy’s Cote de Beaune. It was established in 1950 when Michel Colin, a nephew of legendary Georges Deleger, started producing his own wines on small parcels he inherited. The domaine had been larger, but in 2003 Michel split parts of it off for his sons Philippe and Bruno, who now produce wines independently. Michel still has a parcel of Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, as well as Premier Crus in Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. Clive Coates notes that Michel Colin-Deleger “is an excellent winemaker.”

Santenay is the southernmost appellation in the Côte d’Or. The appellation includes the communes of Santenay and Remigny and it has 813 vineyard acres. Both red and white wines can be made within the Santenay appellation, though in practice about 85% of the wine produced here is red. Pinot Blanc may be used in white wines, though most white Santenays are 100% Chardonnay. Though there are no Grands Crus, Santenay boasts 12 Premiers Crus. Among the best Premiers Crus vineyards are Clos de Tavannes, La Comme, Les Gravières and Le Passe Temps. Robert M. Parker Jr. has written that “good Santenays share a robust, tannic, earthy character with a bouquet that suggests cherry and strawberry fruit intertwined with the smell of sautéed almonds.” Clive Coates has noted that the white wines of Santenay “should be crisp, medium-bodied and fruity, less racy but fuller than Saint-Aubins, perhaps with a touch of spice…”

This red wine is relatively light and can pair with a wide variety of foods. The grape prefers cooler climates and the wine is most often associated with Burgundy, Champagne and the U.S. west coast. Regional differences make it nearly as fickle as it is flexible.